Saturday, May 24, 2008

Kailash Mansarovar




865 Kms from Delhi, stand Mount Kailas and Lake Mansarovar constituting one of the grandest of the Himalayan beauty spots. The perpetual snowclad peak of holy Kailash of hoary antiquity and celebrity, the spotless design of nature's art, of most bewitching and overpowering beauty, has a vibration of the supreme order from the spiritual point of view. It seems to stand as an immediate revelation of the Almighty in concrete form, which makes man bend his knees and lower his head in reverence. Its gorgeous silvery summit, resplendent with the luster of spiritual aura,pierces into a heavenly height of 6690 meters (22028 feet) above the level of the sea.

The PARIKRAMA or circumambulation of the Kailas Parvat is about 54 kms. Mount Kailas is revered in Sanskrit literature as the abode of the all-blissful Lord Shiva and his divine spouse Parvati, the all-enchanting Nature (Prakriti) which from 32 kms. off is overlooking the Holy Mansarovar and the Rakshas TaI, in the south. The holy Mansarovar or manasa-sarovara is the holiest, the most fascinating, the most inspiring, the most famous of all the lakes in the world and the most ancient that civilization knows. The lake is majestically calm and dignified like a huge bluish green emerald or a pure turquoise set between the two mighty and equally majestic silver mountains, the Kailas on the north and the Gurla Mandhata on the south and between the sister lake Rakshas Tal or Ravan Harda on the west and some hills on the east.

The weather is always uncertain. One moment you have scorching Sun, the next moment it begins to hail and snow and shortly after having a nap and coming out of your camp, you will see a clear blue sky and bright Sun above and a bed of pearl-like hail and white snow on the ground.

Kalidas Saying...
"In the northern part there is a mighty mountain by the name Himalaya, the abode of perpetual snow, fittingly called the lord of mountains, animated by Divinity as its soul and internal spirit (or in other words, Divinity incarnate). Spanning the wide land from the eastern to the western sea, be stands as it were like the measuring rod of earth.

At the direction of the king Prithu the self same mountain was used as a calf by all other mountains. While the Mount Meru (KAILAS) stood as an expert milker of cows and milched the Mother Earth (as if from a cow) the milk of shining gems and medicinal herbs of wonderful virtues and supreme efficacy (in order to adorn the Himalayas)."

Kailash Mansarover Yatra

The world-famous and holy Mt. Kailash & Manas Lake have been, the source of inspiration for many religions and beliefs. Despite many difficulties and long distances, people are keen to go there at least once in their lives. Continued from centuries, this pilgrimage had been stopped from 1959 to 1980, and when it restarted in 1981 it was welcomed everywhere. Hundreds of Indians thus got the opportunity to go through this region. Situated on the other side of Himalayas of Uttarakhand, Kailash & Mansarovar are the most pious and most beautiful shrines.

Bonpa, the ancient Tibetans, see a nine story 'swastik' in it and consider it an abode of Damchauk and Dorge Phangmo. Hindus worship it as the abode of Shiva and Parvati. Buddhists believe it to be the home of Buddha and Manipadam and Jains worship it as the place of "nirwan of First Tirthankar".

Near Mansarovar there is a beautiful lake called Rakash Tal - or Ravehahalad. In the north of these two lakes is Mt. Kailash and its series (22028 ft./6675 mts.) in the south Mount Gurala is situated. From this region four big rivers of north India originate' Karnalies, Satluj, Brahamputra and Sindh. 865 kms from Delhi, Mt. . Kailash and Mansarovar in Tibet, are always very near to the hearts of Indians. Due to Mansarovar, Uttarakhand is also termed as Manas-Khand.

It, is believed that Mansarovar is originated from the forehead of Brahma and was discovered by the king Gurlamandhata, after whom the highest Mt. Gurula (Mamonani) is named. Thus the unique mountain and lake are attached to our history, culture and mythology. In the parikrama of Kailash (Kongrigpoke) one has to walk 55 kms. and its highest point is Dolmapass at 19000 ft. Mansarovar is situated at the height of 14930 ft./4530 mt. with a circumference of 90 kin., depth of 90 mt. and total area of about 320 sq. km. Mansarovar is attached to Rakashtal with a natural canal at a height of 14900 ft./4515mt. Circumference of Rakashtal is 122 kms. River Satluj originates from the north west corner of Rakashtal.

In winter all mountains and river lakes are frozen and covered with snow, so the time of yatra is from May to September. Indian pilgrims visit from June to September in 16 batches. (30-40 in every batch). Foreign Ministry of Indian Govt. advertises this pilgrimage. Selected people go through medical tests and other formalities before they do yatra in their batches. The management of this yatra is done by Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam Ltd. in Indian region and Tibetan tourism agency in Tibet respectively.

"Nature in her wildest and most rugged forms bears witness to the correctness of the belief that here is the home of ‘the great god’ ....All the aids to worship in the shape of striking scenery, temples, mystic and grogeous ceremonial and skilled celebrants are present, and he must indeed be dull who returns froms his pilgrim unsatisfied”.

Suggested Itineary

The Kailash Mansarovar Yatra takes normally 28 days. Of these 28 days, 11 days yatra is in indian side and rest days of the yatra is in Chinese side. The trekking starts on 4th day on the Indian side. The Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam Limited makes arrangements to provide accomodation, transportation and food on the Indian side of the Yatra. Where as Chinese authorities makes arrangemet for accomodation, logistics and other arrangements on the Chinese side.

The daywise schedule of yatra is given below:-

First Day
The pilgrims cover 320 Km from Delhi to Kathgodam via Moradabad, Rampur, Haldwani. They cross the rivers Yamuna, Ganga and Ramganga W. rivers on the way. Before starting the journey, pilgrims are briefed by the Under Secretary, Ministery of External Affairs, about the Yatra and their medical check-up is done at Indo-Tibetian Border Police Centre.

Second Day
After having Breakfast at Kathgodam, the journey to Bageshwar starts. At lunch, bus reaches to Almora and lunch is served in the KMVN (Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam) guest house. Then there is drive uphill to Bageshwar which lies on the confluence of Gomti and Saryu.

Third Day
Before breakfast at Bageshwar, the Baijnath temple may be visited. From here the pilgrim reach Chaukori via Kanda - Vijaypur - Kotmunya. Everyone will be pleased by the impressive view of the mighty Himalaya form the tea estate of Chaukori. Then there is a drive downhill to Thal, uphill to Didihat where lunch is served, then downhill again to Ogla - Jauljibi and finally along the Gori river till they reach Dharchula, crossing the Gomti, Saryu, Ramganga E. and Gori on the way. One can now see the mountains of Nepal. The distance covered is 160 Km.

Fourth Day
19 Km from Dharchula the Dhauli E. meets the Kali at Tawaghat. One can plan to reach out and touch the Chhiplakot peaks, lakes and glaciers via village Khela in a future trip. The pilgrims cross the bridge over the roaring Dhauli and see the confluence of the Kali and Dhauli, and then drive on to Mangti. If one is lucky one might find oneself in this region during the Kandali festival which is held once in twelve years. Travel along the Kali river through dense forest to climb up to the village of Gala (2440m). Here are KMVN's cottages. There is a PWD dak bungalow at Jipti (2378m) 2 Km further.

Fifth Day
Although Gala to Buddhi (2740 m) via Malpa (2018m) is 20 Km. To reach Malpa one has to climb down 4444 steps to reach the river Kali. This place is Lakhanpur. To the right of the Kali is the Chhata fall. On the left is also a fall in Nepal. Next is the beautiful Najang fall. The Kali seems almost like a violent storm in this region. Budi (2740m) is at a distance of 9 Km from Malpa and the group rests at Lamre before reaching Budi. There are numerous springs and waterfalls on either side of the river; also can seen the Api - Nampa range of Nepal.

Sixth Day
Gunji (3500m) is 17 Km from Budi. On reaching Chhialekh the group enters the region of Byans. The pasture of Chhialekh is strewn with grasses and flowers. Then comes Garbhiang village (3225m), deserted because of geopolitical and geological reasons. Here the Kali meets the Tinkar coming from Nepal. The Kali is no longer intimidating and becomes almost silent by the time Gunji (3500m) comes. The trek from Budhi to Gunji via Chhialekh and Garbhiang is 20-22 km long and most tiring of all. Buddhi to Chhialekh is a steep climb. On the way Api mountain range on the Nepal side is seen.

Seventh Day
One moves along the relatively quieter Kali to walk 10 Km to reach Kalapani (3600m). There are pine, bhojpatra and juniper forests in this region. Although the river has been coming all the way from Lipulekh pass, the small pool formed under a huge rock is considered to be the source of the Kali. There are snow - clad mountains all around and Vyas's cave is to be found on the mountain in front of Kalapani. It was because of the visit of Rishi Vyas that the region is known as Byans. There is also a hot water spring at Kalapani.

Eight Day
The group covers the 9 Km from Kalapani to Navidhang (3987m) surrounded by innumerable wild flowers. This is the region of Musk deer and Monal and the highest stage of Himalayan wilderness. The 'Om Parvat' smiles in front of the pilgrim.

Ninth Day
After walking 8 Km from Navidhang to the Lipulekh pass (5334m), the pilgrims enter Tibet, where the Tibetan/Chinese autorities welcome them. They walk down to Chang Lobochahela and from here by truck and bus they reach the old trading town of Taklakot (Purang), which is situated on the banks of the Karnali river.

Tenth and Eleventh Day
The pilgrims staying at Purang Guest House (4267m) can walk to town, Shimling monastery, Nepali market and Karnali river. 3-4 Km away is the damaged memorial of the Dogra General Jorawar Singh. The formalities of emigration and payment to the Chinese authorities are completed here. Yaks for the Kailash Parikarama and ponies for thr Manas Parkaramas are to be requisitioned here only.

Twelfth Day
The pilgrim group is divide into two subgroups, one for Kailas and another for Manas parikrama. The bus starts from Purang around midninght. Before sunrise the bus crosses the Gurla Pass (4910m). Then comes Rakastal (Long Tso, 4515m) on the left western slopes of Gurla Mountain (Memo Nani, 7683m) on the right and Mt. Kailas (Kang Rinpoche, 6675m) in front. Next is the first glimpse of Mansarovar (Tso Mapam, 4530m) at Zaidi. After crossing Parkha plains the bus reaches Tarchen, the base camp fro Kailas parikrama. Group 'A' stays at Tarchen and 'B' is taken to Hore by Bus.

Thirteenth Day
Group 'A' walks 20 Km along the Lha Chhu, constantly looking at Mt. Kailas and its changing faces. Before sunset one should reach Dirapuk Gompa (4909m) and enjoy the northern face of Kailas at sunset. Group 'B' walks along the southeastern shore of Manas. After crossing Samo and Tag rivers and visiting Seralung and Yerngo Gompa for night stay after walking or riding for 30 Km. Here in front of the pilgrim is the Manas and elevated Kailas and behind are the grand peaks of Gurla Mandhata.

Fourteenth Day
This is a slightly difficult day for group 'A'. Along Dolma La chhu the group reaches the Dolma pass (5636m), where the huge stone memorial of goddess Dolma (Tara Devi) is located. After resting and praying pilgrims walk down to Gaurikund (Tukji Chenpo Tso) and reach Zutulpuk Gompa along Lham Chu. Group 'B' walks for 40 Km along the south - western shore of Manas - the region is full of birds and flowers. Before the completion of parikrama of Manas at Zaidi, one can also visit Gossul Gompa.

Fifteenth Day
Group 'A' completes Kailas parikrama on this day by noon. Rest of the day can be used for visiting Gyengtak Gompa and Astpad, the southern face of Kailas from the ridge (6675m) above Gyengtak Gompa. This is the rest day for group 'B' but Chiu Gompa and Ganga Chnu, the natural channel which connects Manas with Rakastal, may be visited by walking 8*2 = 16 Km. From this point, grand view of Manas, Rakas, Kailas and Gurla can be seen.

Sixteenth to Twentieth Day
Group 'B' comes to Tarchen for Kailas Parikrama and group 'A' to hore for Manas parikrama. Form the 18th to the 20th days, both groups completes their respective parikramas. Form the 21st day, 'B' group comes to a waiting 'A' group of Zaidi. After prayers, bath and yajnya the pilgrims comes back to Purang enjoying the grand views of Kailas and Rakastal on the way.

Twenty first Day
Before lunch the pilgrim visit the Khojarnath Gompa, 25 Km away from Purang and situated at the bank of Karnali. In the evening, Purang market may be visited. It is now time for purchasing things from the market and government departmental stores. The pilgrims can visit Taklasar or Simling Gompa also.

Twenty Second to Twenty Eight Day
Back to Lipulekh (5122m) and finally down to Kalapani on 22nd day. 23rd Gunji, 24th Budi, 25th Gala, 26th Dharchula, 27th Bageshwar by bus. On the Twenty eight day the group reaches to N.Delhi - the National capital welcomes you.

Appeal

While trekking, walk towards the hill, not to the drop-side. Don't withdraw towards drop-side to give way to any person or horse/pony.

The yatra time is from morning to noon. So you are advised to start early and reach next camp by noon. Wet clothes, due to rain or sweat, should be changed and make your arrangements for next day's yatra.

The arrangements for horses and porters are to be done in the very beginning at Tawaghat. It is not possible to get them in the middle of yatra.

Trek according to the route. Don't experiment with shortcuts or untrodden ways.

During your trek, be cautious, yet confident. Take special care of difficult terrain and watch out for landslides, falling rocks/ boulders, cloudbursts, the Kali River flowing alongside. You should trek as a team, taking care of your other team-members and warning each other of potential hazards.

Use only water of safe springs for drinking. Fill your water bottles from camp. On the wayside, teashops give relief.

During the selection itself Yatris are advised to procure good quality trekking shoes/ walking-stick, raincoats, Polythene and Rucksacks to carry their belongings, goggles, woolens mufflers, hats, jackets/wind-cheaters, couple of pairs of socks, cameras, transistor radios and general medicines. Notebooks and pens can also prove handy.

The weight of your luggage should be upto 25 kg only. Extra weight will be charged.

From Delhi to Lipulekh and back from Lipulekh to Delhi there are good arrangements by KMSV.N, but K.M.V.N. or Uttranchal Tourism is not responsible for any accident. If a yatri doesn't attend after selection, money will be not refunded.

The lodging facilities on the way are in snow-huts, tin-sheds or tents in some places. Warm beddings are adequately provided. All these facilities are arranged in Tibet also. The yatries have to cock their own food for 6 days while undertaking the 'parikrama'.

Onion-less food rice, dal, chapatis, vegetables, pickle, puri, paratha, pakori, vegetable soup, sweets, rasna, tea, Bournvita, and local green vegetables are available. The food required for the duration of the parikrama is advised to be purchased from Delhi or any major town enroute. In Tibet, stoves and utensils are provided.

In case of illness, one may have to stop the yatra midway and return, but money is not refunded. In emergencies, a helicopter can also be arranged, on payment and depending on availability.

Rucksack, water bottle, jacket or sleeping bags can be hired from KMVN.

Photography is not prohibited in India and Tibet so a sufficient stock of reels is advisable. Exposed films can be deposited at Kalapani or at Lipulekh.

For any information or suggestions please write to

General Manager (Tourism)
K.M.V.N. Ltd
Oak Park House
Nainital - 263001
Ph - 05942-236356
Fax - 05942-236897